I arrived on the Caribbean coast yesterday morning after spending two nights on the Rio Dulce, a river leading out to the Caribbean ocean and the only-reachable-by-boat Garifuna town of Livingston. The Garifuna population is a black community here in Livingston that resembles the Belizean and Caribbean island culture. Its quite different after spending so much time in Mayan-majority areas of south and western areas of Guatemala. There is still a Mayan and ladino population here, so its quite a mix and kind of neat to be honest.
Nonetheless I haven't done anything too strenuous today - Ive been trying to stay very still in an effort not to drown in my own sweat (a beautiful idea, I know) haha. I am dying here...I am excited to get Peten and Tikal over with in the next couple days and get back to the beautiful lake that allows me to walk around in pants and a long sleeved shirt in the evening, but still get a tan if I want to go kayaking before the rain starts in the afternoon. So, all in all, this is probably what has helped me reach my current travelling weight...trying not to move...haha
Although! I did walk aobut 2 hours yesterday with a group of Irish girls and a guy from England who I met in Casa Iguana, the hostel that I am staying at right now here in Livingston. I unknowingly accompanied them into town, I wanted to buy a watch..and once we got to the water they told me they were heading to Siete Altares - a lesser version of the Semuc Champey pools...smaller and less brilliant but lovely to swim in after that walk.
After waiting over an hour for someone to come back to their boat to give us a ride back to Livingston (none of us wanted to walk back haha) I went back to the hostel for dinner, which was amazing! Vegetable kebabs, mashed potatoes, corn and some stuffing...I was about to sit down when I heard my name being yelled from the other side of the patio...it was people I had met at Yo Mamas Casa in San Pedro. Mor and Gal (some hilarious Israeli girls), Igor (an Australian who is sailing his way through his travelling days, and is probably the best candidate for a pirate out of anyone Ive met so far), his sister Nina, her Italian roomate Francesco, and Ritchie, their friend from Guatemala City. They had all met up in Rio Dulce, docked the boat half way down the river in Texan Bay and taken a dingy with a motor here to Livingston. So after eating we went to go find them a room at another hotel with the help of Rusty, the owner of Casa Iguana, since the hostal was completely full. We then ran to a comedor to find them some food - ran, because it was pouring. We were completely soaked afterwards, and walked down to the beach to find a non-existant reggae bar but spent some time dancing at another beach-discoteca.
But, now to account for the trip before Livingston...
After my last post, I grabbed something to eat and literally returned to Zephyr just as Mike was loading up the tubes in the truck. I had enough time to just throw my bag in my room and grab my bathing suit and we were on our way. Tyler was our "guide" which was ridiculous because..well..who needs a guide to go tubing? But then I realized that we were again dealing with some inexperienced people..there were two English girls who came with..one of which, after literally one minute in the water was stuck in a tangle of tree branches, haha
So, Tyler had to call out "left" or "right" for dodging obstacles in the middle of the river, but a couple of people also didnt quite get the concept of paddling...
We stopped in a little cove and had a drink..and were off on our way again. It was another feeling of normality in a strange place. I was so comfortable and I couldve just been tubing at home..but wait, I'm in the middle of Guatemala. A really bizarre feeling!
That night I went to bed pretty early before dinner - I was starting to feel a bit sick. Tyler came to wake me up when my dinner was ready but I felt like vomitting everywhere so I graciously declined. I woke up later...around 1am...where I had the wonderful chance to hang out groggily with the late night drinkers, which I ate what was left of my pizza...someone had nabbed two pieces in my sleep. I'll blame the bar shots, haha
The next morning I packed my things and made my shuttle wait about half an hour while Tyler helped me put new music on my ipod...at the hostel you can get music switched over for a fee...but no one did it for me, though they had my list and iPod in the safe for two days... Then I was off on a pick up truck to Rio Dulce. We got there around 1pm and then I caught a 1 hour boat to Finca Tatin, a hotel in the river, up a tributary about 20 minutes from Livingston and 45 minutes from the Rio Dulce town. It was nice, though I still wasn't feeling the greatest - still a little nauseous and gross. I went to sleep once I got settled in, got up for dinner, couldnt finish, went to bed again and woke up the next morning feeling a little better.
I actually got Finca Tatin recommended to me by the woman who owns the Travel Bug, a travel store in Kitsilano, back in Vancouver. It was pretty nice, set in a really lush property, witha beautiful hangout area and spot right on the river. There were a lot of mosquitos, though, and the crowd there was a bit older or couples. Electricity ran for 4 hours each night, but that really wasnt an issue. BUT! I saw a ridiculously huge spider and almost had a heart attack. I knocked the mirror in the bathroom and grabbed it before it could fall. After I grabbed it I felt something on the back and turned it around and this gross, big, brown, hairy thing jumped into the sink. It was the size of my hand and made my heart stop for a second. I backed out of the bathroom trying to think of something else while I got to safety...
That day I went kayaking - thats the only way to get around, and all of the tiendas, the stores, are accessible by boat only. So they all look like docks, and fit into the houses that dot the strip along the water. There are a lot of people from Guatemala City that have huge houses here and big water toys (boats and jet skis..). Anyway, I kayaked over to Agua Caliente, where there are some hotsprings that flow into the river. I ate there as well - tried some tapado, which is a typical Garifuna dish that consists of an entire fish, shrim and a whole crab inside a coconut milk based soup. It's one of those things that almost every tourist is encouraged to try when they come to Livingston and the Rio Dulce....
So after a couple nights at Finca Tatin, I came here to Livingston by boat and checked into the Iguana..and the rest of my days have already been explained haha.
Tomorrow I will be heading to Flores, which is in the north of Guatemala, in the departemento of Peten. I will probably spend the night in El Remate and go to the famous mayan ruins of Tikal the morning after. I met an Israeli guy here who said he bribed a guard and spent the night IN the ruins. I don't know if I have the nerve or guts to do it. Im sure I'd wake up from some crazy dreams...if I could get to sleep of course...
Jul 14, 2010
Semuc, Semuc
The day of my last post, I actually went straight to the office, phoned the other hostel and packed my stuff. Thankfully they had a bed. I tried to be slightly discreet about calling at first (I had heard that there is some tension between the hostels) but just said I was meeting a friend at the other... I talked to Tyler, one of the workers at Zephyr and he told me they were all just about to leave, but if I wanted to watch the final of the world cup, I could meet them at a bar down in town, just grab a tuk tuk there. That restaurant was filled to capacity, with people stading outside and looking through the windows. I think it may have been the biggest TV used in Lanquin for the final, so everyone wanted in on it. A lot of happy Spaniards in that bar, but with so many people cheering for Holland, there were definitely some sour faces that afternoon haha
When I got to the hostel and everyone came back, it turned out that a bunch of people that I met in San Pedro were also staying there. I love meeting up along the way - it feels like you have family! Today, all those lovely Isrealies left, but theres some great people around still and as always, tis the traveling life to part...
I went to bed quite early the past couple days, save last night... but after doing school again last week i got into the habit of a 6oclock wake up and putting myself to bed by 930. But I suppose as always I go in waves with my schedule
My second day at the hostel I went on the Semuc Champey tour. We did the caves first which was nuts! The water is so high inside because of the rain they´ve had here, and some of the waterfalls inside were just crazy. Our guide, Otto, was amazing though, and we went pretty far inside. We only had candles to light our way, I couldn´t believe that mine held up the entire way. And considering my height, and my one handed doggy paddle, I´d say I did pretty well on that leg of the tour.
The caves took about an hour, and then there was a rope swing of sorts to jump in the river. I am a baby and didn´t go, haha, I don´t think I´ll ever be inclined to throw myself into the air voluntarily...
After, we went tubing, but because the river is so high right now, it literally took less than 5 minutes to get back down to the office. That little taste though, made me miss the Granby and Kettle Rivers at home. Zephyr organizes tubing trips every day in the afternoon, but the water really isnt that nice right now. But if there are enough people today, I might go...
Once we got out, we walked over to the Semuc Champey entrance, grabbed some lunch from a stand, and then walked up to el mirador, or the lookout point. It was a fantastic view, but somehow, after seeing it so many times in everyone´s Guatemala photos, I wasn´t as impressed as I should have been. It felt like a bit of dejavu to be honest... It´s a popular photo shot. Eitehr way, you´re looking over the crystal blue pools and can see the mountains all around. Hopefully I´ll get around to posting those photos soon...
After hiking back down, we went swimming, for just over an hour. There was a point where we were following the guide, and he was taking us somewhere to jump off. Literally, it was only two meters up, and I tried about 5 times to jump but couldnt get my legs to push me off, haha, so I climbed down and jumped into the water from only about 3 feet up. I´m improving I think? haha
The pickup truckride back was wet...it started to rain just as we got in the back, and after the hour trip back to Zephyr I was soaked. But it was still a beautiul ride!
I was so bagged after that - we had started the day at 830 and come back at around 5. I was out by 930 - and slept for about 12 hours haha.
Yesterday I refused to do anything. And it was lovely. A hammock, some good music from the bar, and a view with good friends was amazing. I walked into town some time later with a friend, Andrea, who I met and grabbed some chocobananos and chocopinas, bought some shorts and took a look around the town. Lanquin is pretty small but its worth a stroll
The other night I asked a local woman if she could sew a shirt for me - i found a nice thin plaid shirt thats perfect for this weather, in a second hand, ropa americana store, but it was definitely intended to be a dress. She came back with the shirt cut at the length I wanted, but with the sides flared and quite a bit longer than the rest. It looked kind of odd, but then I realized that how they wear their guipils here - whereas the blouses in and around Lake Atititlan are tucked into the skirts and tied with a fabric belt, the women here wear a white tanktop and a thin, see through overshirt thats this odd shape... so naturally she thought thats how I would want a shirt cut. Now I have a blouse in their style, which is a pretty neat souvenir I think!
Tomorrow I plan to take a pickup to Livingston, starting at 730 in the morning. It should take about 5 hours.. hopefully it doesnt rain till I get there!
When I got to the hostel and everyone came back, it turned out that a bunch of people that I met in San Pedro were also staying there. I love meeting up along the way - it feels like you have family! Today, all those lovely Isrealies left, but theres some great people around still and as always, tis the traveling life to part...
I went to bed quite early the past couple days, save last night... but after doing school again last week i got into the habit of a 6oclock wake up and putting myself to bed by 930. But I suppose as always I go in waves with my schedule
My second day at the hostel I went on the Semuc Champey tour. We did the caves first which was nuts! The water is so high inside because of the rain they´ve had here, and some of the waterfalls inside were just crazy. Our guide, Otto, was amazing though, and we went pretty far inside. We only had candles to light our way, I couldn´t believe that mine held up the entire way. And considering my height, and my one handed doggy paddle, I´d say I did pretty well on that leg of the tour.
The caves took about an hour, and then there was a rope swing of sorts to jump in the river. I am a baby and didn´t go, haha, I don´t think I´ll ever be inclined to throw myself into the air voluntarily...
After, we went tubing, but because the river is so high right now, it literally took less than 5 minutes to get back down to the office. That little taste though, made me miss the Granby and Kettle Rivers at home. Zephyr organizes tubing trips every day in the afternoon, but the water really isnt that nice right now. But if there are enough people today, I might go...
Once we got out, we walked over to the Semuc Champey entrance, grabbed some lunch from a stand, and then walked up to el mirador, or the lookout point. It was a fantastic view, but somehow, after seeing it so many times in everyone´s Guatemala photos, I wasn´t as impressed as I should have been. It felt like a bit of dejavu to be honest... It´s a popular photo shot. Eitehr way, you´re looking over the crystal blue pools and can see the mountains all around. Hopefully I´ll get around to posting those photos soon...
After hiking back down, we went swimming, for just over an hour. There was a point where we were following the guide, and he was taking us somewhere to jump off. Literally, it was only two meters up, and I tried about 5 times to jump but couldnt get my legs to push me off, haha, so I climbed down and jumped into the water from only about 3 feet up. I´m improving I think? haha
The pickup truckride back was wet...it started to rain just as we got in the back, and after the hour trip back to Zephyr I was soaked. But it was still a beautiul ride!
I was so bagged after that - we had started the day at 830 and come back at around 5. I was out by 930 - and slept for about 12 hours haha.
Yesterday I refused to do anything. And it was lovely. A hammock, some good music from the bar, and a view with good friends was amazing. I walked into town some time later with a friend, Andrea, who I met and grabbed some chocobananos and chocopinas, bought some shorts and took a look around the town. Lanquin is pretty small but its worth a stroll
The other night I asked a local woman if she could sew a shirt for me - i found a nice thin plaid shirt thats perfect for this weather, in a second hand, ropa americana store, but it was definitely intended to be a dress. She came back with the shirt cut at the length I wanted, but with the sides flared and quite a bit longer than the rest. It looked kind of odd, but then I realized that how they wear their guipils here - whereas the blouses in and around Lake Atititlan are tucked into the skirts and tied with a fabric belt, the women here wear a white tanktop and a thin, see through overshirt thats this odd shape... so naturally she thought thats how I would want a shirt cut. Now I have a blouse in their style, which is a pretty neat souvenir I think!
Tomorrow I plan to take a pickup to Livingston, starting at 730 in the morning. It should take about 5 hours.. hopefully it doesnt rain till I get there!
Jul 11, 2010
In the sweaty heart of Guatemala
After a 14 hour shuttle bus ride, I arrived in Lanquin last night. Our shuttle was pretty lucky because we were able to make reservations at one of our pit stops. I got one of the last beds in this hostel called El Retiro. Its ridiculously huge, and I actually might switch to a newer hostel called Zephyr Lodge...people have told me its really relaxing, more low key. I actually have come down with a cold, and having this many people around is sort of overwhelming. But we`ll see. If I get up the energy to get into town or ask someone where I can find the lodge, I`ll switch over today. Though I do fear that my lack of energy will keep me right where I am, haha
It is so ridiculously hot here. Like I may have mentioned in a previous post, I didn´t really bring any shorts to Guatemala, since I was prepared to spend most of my time in Xela, and of course its the rainy season. I was also advised to dress quite conservatively, which I have definitely appreciated - since most women outside of the city dress in their typical traje. So right now I just have a wrap around skirt that I bought in Panajachel. I hope it will suffice...
Being around this many tourists is just nuts. Again, Lanquin is a big tourist hot spot, and a lot of people who have just gotten to Guatemala or are passing through make sure to get here, so this is also adding to that atmosphere that makes it seem like Antigua moved just a little further north.
I am not sure how many nights I will end up spending here. Enough to do the tours - there are cave tours and tubing and waterfall exploring. But next I will head to Livingston on the Carribbean coast. And after I will try fit in a couple nights at Finca Tatin on the Rio Dulce. Hopefully I make it to Peten in time to start school next Monday.. If not, I may cancel, visit the sights near Tikal in a couple days and try to get back to San Pedro and start school again a little earlier than expected.
I feel a lot different seeing all these tourist attractions after being here so long. Also, talking to so many travellers who are just passing through, maybe spending 10 days in Guatemala at most, is crazy...even after two months here I feel like I barely have seen the country. Its a shame that so many people pass through it so quickly..
It is so ridiculously hot here. Like I may have mentioned in a previous post, I didn´t really bring any shorts to Guatemala, since I was prepared to spend most of my time in Xela, and of course its the rainy season. I was also advised to dress quite conservatively, which I have definitely appreciated - since most women outside of the city dress in their typical traje. So right now I just have a wrap around skirt that I bought in Panajachel. I hope it will suffice...
Being around this many tourists is just nuts. Again, Lanquin is a big tourist hot spot, and a lot of people who have just gotten to Guatemala or are passing through make sure to get here, so this is also adding to that atmosphere that makes it seem like Antigua moved just a little further north.
I am not sure how many nights I will end up spending here. Enough to do the tours - there are cave tours and tubing and waterfall exploring. But next I will head to Livingston on the Carribbean coast. And after I will try fit in a couple nights at Finca Tatin on the Rio Dulce. Hopefully I make it to Peten in time to start school next Monday.. If not, I may cancel, visit the sights near Tikal in a couple days and try to get back to San Pedro and start school again a little earlier than expected.
I feel a lot different seeing all these tourist attractions after being here so long. Also, talking to so many travellers who are just passing through, maybe spending 10 days in Guatemala at most, is crazy...even after two months here I feel like I barely have seen the country. Its a shame that so many people pass through it so quickly..
Jul 9, 2010
Let´s stay in Guatemala
I just finished another week of Spanish school. It was kind of hard getting back into the swing of doing 4 hours a day, but somehow I managed to get myself out of bed and keep myself talking for the whole morning.
I actually got an amazing teacher - her name is Delia and we have had some great conversations. We talked about mayan medicine and cosmology, funerals and religion. I actually shared some Doukhobor history and customs with her, and she was pretty interested. Its always great having that exchange across cutlures, you really gain a new respect for what you take for granted as your own past and family traditions.
Delia also got me to look up my nahual..which is my mayan cosmological sign. I went to the local museum and after our tour the woman helped me figure out my mayan dates - they take into consideration your date of birth, then figure out your day of conception, and then calculate your future. I am not sure of the process, but they have descriptions and characteristics that go along with each one. I was concieved on Ichquik (sp?), born on 13 K´at and my future is 8 Ee. It was interesting, and there were definitely some aspects that were spot on. With all three, Delia is convinced that I am in a special position to direct cities politically, and particularly to be an intermediary with the divine... she seemed slightly disappointed when she remembered that I had explained myself as an atheist, haha, but maybe the mayan cosmological forces have something else in mind...
We also discussed women´s issues here in San Pedro, which was quite heartwrenching but hopeful at the same time. She has been involved in trying to get some women´s groups together here in the area, but the pressure against the women by their husbands and the lack of support by the Evangelical and Catholic Churches has been challenging..
It was the Feria here this past week...the patron saint festivities. I only caught the tail-end of it, and got to attend part of the procession with Delia where we drank a traditional corn-blended cocoa drink that they only serve at this festival. There were bombas (louuud firecrackers) going off constantly, and at night they had performances and dances, one of which was a Columbian band with scantily clad dancing girls...it was quite a shock to the community I think, they´re actually quite conservative, and it was defintely a popular topic the next day amongst the teachers and students at La Cooperativa...
Ive been staying at the hilariously named Yo Mama´s Casa hostel here in San Pedro. Even though I am only staying in a dorm bed, its nice to have that independence of coming and goign when I please, and cooking my own food or going out when I want. I will be having a family homestay when I get to San Jose in Peten. It´ll actually be nice to have one more family experience before I come home, and I don´t know the area at all either there, so a family will be a good intro to the small lake-side town!
I went kayaking today, which was lovely..I had intent to do it all week...but alas, Friday came and only this afternoon did I get myself in the water. I went with a friend for only about an hour, just before the rain started falling again...
Tomorrow morning I head to Lanquin, which is near the famous tourist attraction Semuc Champey - there are caves and beautiful waterfalls - crystal clear blue from what Ive seen from pictures! So I will be catching a shuttle tomorrow morning at 8;30, having a 1 hour stop over in Antigua, and then arriving in Lanquin around 8... it´s going to be a long day...
A scary thought - I only have a month left in Guatemala! With the plan for the next couple weeks, it seems as if it will fly by..but I guess I´ll have to make the most of it. I will definitely be coming back here one day.
I actually got an amazing teacher - her name is Delia and we have had some great conversations. We talked about mayan medicine and cosmology, funerals and religion. I actually shared some Doukhobor history and customs with her, and she was pretty interested. Its always great having that exchange across cutlures, you really gain a new respect for what you take for granted as your own past and family traditions.
Delia also got me to look up my nahual..which is my mayan cosmological sign. I went to the local museum and after our tour the woman helped me figure out my mayan dates - they take into consideration your date of birth, then figure out your day of conception, and then calculate your future. I am not sure of the process, but they have descriptions and characteristics that go along with each one. I was concieved on Ichquik (sp?), born on 13 K´at and my future is 8 Ee. It was interesting, and there were definitely some aspects that were spot on. With all three, Delia is convinced that I am in a special position to direct cities politically, and particularly to be an intermediary with the divine... she seemed slightly disappointed when she remembered that I had explained myself as an atheist, haha, but maybe the mayan cosmological forces have something else in mind...
We also discussed women´s issues here in San Pedro, which was quite heartwrenching but hopeful at the same time. She has been involved in trying to get some women´s groups together here in the area, but the pressure against the women by their husbands and the lack of support by the Evangelical and Catholic Churches has been challenging..
It was the Feria here this past week...the patron saint festivities. I only caught the tail-end of it, and got to attend part of the procession with Delia where we drank a traditional corn-blended cocoa drink that they only serve at this festival. There were bombas (louuud firecrackers) going off constantly, and at night they had performances and dances, one of which was a Columbian band with scantily clad dancing girls...it was quite a shock to the community I think, they´re actually quite conservative, and it was defintely a popular topic the next day amongst the teachers and students at La Cooperativa...
Ive been staying at the hilariously named Yo Mama´s Casa hostel here in San Pedro. Even though I am only staying in a dorm bed, its nice to have that independence of coming and goign when I please, and cooking my own food or going out when I want. I will be having a family homestay when I get to San Jose in Peten. It´ll actually be nice to have one more family experience before I come home, and I don´t know the area at all either there, so a family will be a good intro to the small lake-side town!
I went kayaking today, which was lovely..I had intent to do it all week...but alas, Friday came and only this afternoon did I get myself in the water. I went with a friend for only about an hour, just before the rain started falling again...
Tomorrow morning I head to Lanquin, which is near the famous tourist attraction Semuc Champey - there are caves and beautiful waterfalls - crystal clear blue from what Ive seen from pictures! So I will be catching a shuttle tomorrow morning at 8;30, having a 1 hour stop over in Antigua, and then arriving in Lanquin around 8... it´s going to be a long day...
A scary thought - I only have a month left in Guatemala! With the plan for the next couple weeks, it seems as if it will fly by..but I guess I´ll have to make the most of it. I will definitely be coming back here one day.
Jul 3, 2010
After a while
Ive actually done quite a bit since my last post, so it`s inevitable that I´m going to leave something out, so this will be a broad overview..
So I did my trek, it was amazing. There is no way to describe what I was able to see. I was in awe at the diversity in the landscape and the isolated villages I saw, most of which are only accessible by foot. It`s hard to imagine living like that but I am glad that I caught a glimpse of what most people may never see. I`ve posted some photos on facebook, but only until about half way through the trip - I don´t know why but it has been taking forever to upload photos.
I left Xela after a day, with some hard goodbyes to my school there, where I met some amazing teachers and some great friends. It may not have been my favourite school all around, but the staff provided a great community.
After Xela, while I was supposed to go to the finca, I changed my plans and decided to go to the coast another time, and maybe try some surfing. So many people have asked me why I didn´t go to El Salvador if I wanted to surf...and all I can say is that I have a feeling that with the rapid growth in tourism in Guatemala, well, I was very interested in seeing more of the coast before it gets really popular - I am not sure when that´ll all come to fruition, but it felt important... Yes, the surfing sucked, but I did try! And I did get somewhere with a longboard, despite the crazy storm waves..
So now I am in Antigua, staying a little longer than I anticipated, but I´ll be making my way to San Pedro La Laguna tomorrow, to start school again on Monday. Its been two weeks since my last class-which feels like forever after doing it for 7 weeks straight. But it gave me a chance to practice more outside of the classroom, and I have actually surprised myself at my progress..huzzah!
So I did my trek, it was amazing. There is no way to describe what I was able to see. I was in awe at the diversity in the landscape and the isolated villages I saw, most of which are only accessible by foot. It`s hard to imagine living like that but I am glad that I caught a glimpse of what most people may never see. I`ve posted some photos on facebook, but only until about half way through the trip - I don´t know why but it has been taking forever to upload photos.
I left Xela after a day, with some hard goodbyes to my school there, where I met some amazing teachers and some great friends. It may not have been my favourite school all around, but the staff provided a great community.
After Xela, while I was supposed to go to the finca, I changed my plans and decided to go to the coast another time, and maybe try some surfing. So many people have asked me why I didn´t go to El Salvador if I wanted to surf...and all I can say is that I have a feeling that with the rapid growth in tourism in Guatemala, well, I was very interested in seeing more of the coast before it gets really popular - I am not sure when that´ll all come to fruition, but it felt important... Yes, the surfing sucked, but I did try! And I did get somewhere with a longboard, despite the crazy storm waves..
So now I am in Antigua, staying a little longer than I anticipated, but I´ll be making my way to San Pedro La Laguna tomorrow, to start school again on Monday. Its been two weeks since my last class-which feels like forever after doing it for 7 weeks straight. But it gave me a chance to practice more outside of the classroom, and I have actually surprised myself at my progress..huzzah!
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